Managua’s too dodgy, San Juan Del Sur’s too party, Granada’s too expensive, Leon’s too hot! Common gripes we’ve heard from fellow travellers in Nicaragua. Do not stress! We have your private paradise covered, it’s nestled away in a short but sweaty bus ride from Leon – welcome to Las Peñitas!
Craig and I spent five weeks living in this paradise for free! By free I mean we offered our skills in exchange for our keep and one meal so I can say with confidence that here is a local’s guide to Nicaragua’s best kept secret! Whether you are here for a day trip or taking a break from the backpacking trail, Las Peñitas has lots to offer.
Las Peñitas Beach
Las Peñitas is a playa, approximately 5 km of sand with lots of beach front cafes and bars for you to enjoy the views of the lapping waves and incredible sunsets. The Marina is the best spot to catch the sunrise and the rocks, where the surfers in Nicaragua hangout, is the hotspot for the sunset.
Las Peñitas Sea
Many surfers in Nicaragua head to Las Peñitas for a tranquilo surfing trip. The quality of the waves vary from day to day. Think you’re a good surfer? Watch out, the local kids will put your skills to shame! They are extremely talented.
The waves of Las Peñitas are wild. They make for a fun afternoon jumping in them, over them, and through them. Hold on to your bikini bottoms ladies, one swipe and the sea has claimed them!
Surf board rental: $6 half day / $10 full day / Lesson: $20
Horse Riding in Paradise
There are many four legged friends in Las Peñitas, the street dogs are plentiful and like most Nicaraguan towns, pretty well looked after. The larger of the four legged animal kingdom, horses, are available for rent. With a guide, horse riders will trot along the sandy shores with the wind in the hair.
Horse Riding: $14 approx.
Fancy seeing cute turtles? This is often possible through a trip to the mangroves of Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado!
Mangrove Trip: $12.50 (short) $25 (long) approx.
Marina and Fishing
Las Peñitas has a beautiful marina where you can watching the fishermen set up their boats at sunset and return with the catch of the day late morning. Travellers are also invited to take a fishing trip with the local fishermen!
Fishing: $40 per hour / three hours (1 – 4 people)
Restaurants in Las Peñitas
So much choice to meet every budget! Our favourites:
Budget: Carmen’s Restaurant, which is actually Carmen’s house with tables and chair set up next to her sleeping husband in the hammock and the friendly parrot! Fish selected from the fridge or meat, rice, and salad for 80 ($2.82) – 100 cordobas.
Healthy: Simple Beach Lodge have two kick ass chefs, Carla and Melba, who rustle up healthy wraps, baguettes (90 / $3.18 – 120 cordobas), a popular and pretty cheese board, as well as fruit smoothies. Breakfast (90 cordobas) of pancakes, eggs, fruit, or chocobanana (dessert for dismaying!) is available from 07:30.
Nice environment: Bomalu is the perfect escape from the midday sun. Salad, sandwiches, and some specials including paella are available but the main attraction are the hammocks!
Burgers: Canadian run, The Lazy Turtle, offers a variety of burgers including a Canadian special (approx. 200 / $7.06 -300 cordobas)
Quebec: Yes, you read that right. Canada’s favourite hangover meal, poutine (85 cordobas), can be found in the sleepy beach town of Las Peñitas! Chips, cheese, and gravy which leaves you feel satisfied yet a little dirty inside can be found at Mono Loco!
Pizza: Keeping it Canadian, a very nice Canadian couple run Dulce Mareas which offers pizzas (approx. 100 / $3.53 – 200 cordobas) and specials throughout the week. They have a fancy coffee machine too. The brownie and ice cream is not to be missed.
Marina View: Barca de Oro aka ‘the French restaurant’ has strong WiFi as well as an incredible BBQ every Saturday. Nice view of the marina too.
Plus many more waiting for you discover them! Be wary of ‘Nicatime’ some restaurants have a ‘relaxed’ concept of time!
Stop! Hammock time, Bomalu, Las Peñitas
Partying in Las Peñitas
Las Peñitas is more paradise than party but you won’t go without choice in regards to bars at the playa.
Simple Beach Lodge, grab a Toñya (30/60 cordobas) and watch the sun lower then smash into lots of colours, smothering the sky.
Coco Surf , this simple beach hut bar is in stills so you can enjoy the sunset from up high and daiquiris are only 60 cordobas / $2.12, half the price of the popular Playa Roca!
El Pirate, another great sunset and cocktail stop. Try the mojito. Popular with locals and expats on a Saturday night.
How to Get to Las Peñitas
In Leon, head to the mercadito (just outside of central Leon) and queue for the chicken bus at the side of the market. The journey takes around thirty minutes and costs 14 cordobas / 49 cents. The bus will take you through Poneloya first of all and then down Las Peñitas. In order of hotels, cafes, and bars mentioned above from the start of Las Peñitas
- Mono Loco
- Playa Roca
- Simple Beach Lodge (two surf shops next door)
- Coco Surf (surf shop)
- El Pirate
- Carmen’s Restaurant
- Dulce Mareas
- The Lazy Turtle
- Barca de Oro
A taxi from Leon should cost USD $10. Agree this before hand and make sure that it is for two people (or how many is in your group) and not just one.
Las Peñitas to Leon
Day trippers should begin to leave around 4pm – 5pm, the chicken buses run every 30 – 40 minutes but at no set time, listen out for the horn tooting it’s way along the road. The bus turns and stops outside Barca de Oro at the marina so if you hear it toot as it heads towards the turning point you know you have a couple of minutes to run out to the bus stop on the opposite side of the road (one stop is just past Mono Loco at the VW if it still lives there!)
It’s not uncommon for passing locals to ask if you want a lift, they’ll tell you how much a taxi costs and then barter. We were ripped off and left stranded on the road to Leon when we refused the new amount, a passing taxi soon picked us up for 20 cordobas each!
Starting in Managua? Click here for our guide on how to get to Leon and Las Peñitas!
Best Time to Visit Las Peñitas
Like most of Nicaragua, the dry season is a more appealing time to visit Las Peñitas. Weekends, especially Sundays, are busier as locals from Leon leave the hot city in search of nature’s air con at the beach. There are still stretches of untouched sand on Sundays, so don’t be put off if that is the only day you can visit.
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