The Lares Trek to Machu Picchu is one of the alternative routes to the famous Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. The Inca books up to six months in advance and only a certain amount of passes are available each day. As we didn’t want to restrict ourselves to a date, we opted for an alternative. We do have all 14 ways to Machu Picchu covered in this review here though.
Initially we planned to sign up for The Salkantay Trek but decided to do the Lares Trek instead because we would have been the only two people on the trip with Alpaca Expeditions, a company who organise treks to Machu Picchu. I feared that we would throw each other off the Andes if that were the case. We were not disappointed with our change of plan. The four day / three night trek consists of trekking through valleys, mountains, tropical forests, up and down hills, past lakes, waterfalls and towns. You camp for two nights and sleep in a 2* hotel the night before the big trip to Machu Picchu. Day two is the hardest, which everyone says of all three treks to Machu Picchu.
Before You Trek To Machu Picchu – Altitude
Arrive in Cusco (there are flights from Lima and buses from other destinations such as Arequipa) at least two days before your trek to acclimatise. Do not take this warning lightly. One member of our team was very ill with altitude sickness; she ended up with two days of flu/hangover like symptoms and trekking via donkey taxi on day two. Her friend was fine so it affects everyone differently. With the Lares Trek the highest point is 4650m (15255ft) ABOVE SEA LEVEL and it is horrendous! (Craig enjoyed it, weirdo). But then you see a ‘bonito’ (beautiful) lake so like childbirth, I assume, you swiftly forget the pain.
Machu Picchu Trek Travel Insurance
Research this question: does your travel insurance company cover you at this altitude? Many others did not insure above 3000m. We chose True Traveller because they did insure hiking at this altitude. I actually had to claim in Vancouver (not related to high altitude or hiking!) I had ear crystals which were making me dizzy every time I stood up. True Traveller paid out, fast. Their communication is also very efficient. Check out the best rates for your trip here.
Many people buy coca leaves to chew. Not only is it legal, it’s recommended to help oxygenate blood and prevent altitude sickness. Just remember the activator ash to go with it. We didn’t chew any but drank a lot of coca tea (best served with a spoonful of ‘azucarar’ sugar) and opted for coca sweets bought from the supermarket for a boost while at the high heights.
Check out our packing guide.
We had hailstones. It’s sNOw joke! Four seasons, all before 11am.
Question your fitness. You will be in a group of mixed abilities and the trek is tough.
Choosing A Company To Trek Machu Picchu
Two different travellers recommended Alpaca Expeditions to us. They both agreed with their ethical stance on paying porters a good wage, cheaper companies pay very poorly. We had five glamorous assistants – a cowboy for the horses, two porters, a waiter (with a dicky bow tie outfit!), and a commis chef, plus the head chef. We were advised that the team were very professional and the food was outstanding. I used the ‘chat’ function on the website and discussed our options with Bonnie, I got good vibes.
How Much Does Machu Picchu Trek Cost?
…Hurts. The advertised price on the website was $555 / £379 per person. Like with every company you are expected to pay a deposit which we paid through PayPal ($200 / £134.50) each but there was a 5.5% charge on this so we ended up paying $211 / £142 each. The rest of the balance can be paid in Cusco but unfortunately the ATMs only let you take out $200 per day and we arrived in Cusco two days before we trekked so we had to pay both cash ($400 / £269 which covered both of us) and $311 / £209 on Visa. Annoyingly, there was a 5.5% charge for using Visa too. We ended up paying $325 / £218.50 (including commission) on the Visa for two. At least three weeks of our budget. But it was worth it. Naturally, there are considerably cheaper companies but the service we received was superb. You get what you pay for.
Additional And Optional Costs
You can also hire walking sticks for $15 / £10.24, a sleeping bag for $20 / £13.65 and an air mattress $15 (you get a mat supplied). Thanks to Alpaca Expeditions for throwing these in free to cover this honest review. The sleeping bag is by North Face and creates a cosy cocoon! Along with the hot water bottle the porters gave me and the llama wool blanket I was snug as a bug. I would recommend the airbed but I never camp without one, I’m such a sleep snob.
The Hidden Cost Of Machu Picchu Treks
The website and information sheet states that tipping your team is ‘100% voluntary.’ However, this is not true. We had a very awkward exchange after our last lunch with our (otherwise excellent) guide as we attempted to hand over our collective tip, he stated that this was only the ‘minimum recommendation’ and we could pay more. Alpaca recommend 60 soles per porter (£13) we assumed the commis chef was in this category and 150 soles (£32) for the chef (the food is immense). This worked out at 65 soles (£14) per person. This put one couple over budget so they put in 30 soles less. The guide’s dissatisfaction put a bit of a downer on the lunch for a while. Another member of the group later added more money into the pot.
I think it needs to be made much clearer to travellers on a tight budget that the tip is expected so they can factor in this cost. If the suggested amount isn’t enough, a higher amount must be made clear.
I also feel the suggested collective tip isn’t a good idea because all travellers have a different budget and affordability varies. It was unfair on the nominated member of our group who had to take the flak whilst handing over our “voluntary” gratuity.
Craig believes there is a misconception that travellers are all very wealthy, when in reality we all work hard (two years in our case) to pay for the trip. He thinks this stereotype needs to be tackled.
I’ve heard from friends who did the Inca Trail with another company that they suffered the same tipping situation. We took part in the three day / two night Colca Canyon trek and there was no discussion on tipping (in writing or verbally).
The Briefing: Lares Trek to Machu Picchu
6pm, the night before our trek, at Alpaca Expeditions headquarters we met with our guide, Sibi (Savy) and our companions for the next four days. Sibi mapped out the plan and gave us advice on what to bring (pack your swimwear in your day bag for the baths!) Unpleasantly, he mentioned the ‘tipping’ recommendations that we had read about on the information sheet so already the expectation was becoming clear. We were given a duffel bag and plastic bags to pack our clothes in along with a day bag cover and poncho, both of which became essentials.
Day 1: Cusco – Lares Hot Springs – Cuncani
Bleary eyed, Sibi and the Alpaca crew picked us up from Kokopelli at 04:45. He gave us a llama wool blanket and told us to sleep. With one market stop (where you can buy snacks and toys to give to the local children at your campsite on day one) we arrived at Lares Hot Springs. The Alpaca staff, all dressed in impressive ‘green machine’ uniforms set up a breakfast fit for a king, served in a tent. We ate bread with jam and butter as well as eggs and drank hot drinks. We were also given snacks (chocolate bar and banana) for the morning trek. Some of us went for a post breakfast dip, the water was gorgeous (and not the hottest of the many pools), and then set off for our day one of trekking at 10am at 3100m above sea level.
Personally, Craig and I found the day one trail a doddle. The weather was dreary, the ponchos were useful but, for us, the waiting in the rain for some of the group was a challenge.
The day picked up when we arrived for lunch. The Green Machine clapped on our arrival and we couldn’t believe the set up. A toilet (yes!) tent, our dining room tent, a plastic mat for our bags and soap with water bowls for us to wash our hands. Lunch always consisted of soups, breads, meats and veg. At every meal we were spoiled by content and presentation.
The afternoon trek concluded with meeting some of the local children. Sibi was like the ‘pan’ (bread) man; kids came running in their colourful dresses and ponchos to see what was on offer. Some of the group brought them gifts too.
Our arrival at camp was even more impressive than lunch, in additional to the toilet and dining room tent, our night tents were all set up with the mats, sleeping bags and blankets. Our duffel bags were all laid out for collection too. We snacked on popcorn, empanada (llama cheese ones, deliscioso!) and hot drinks then we were called outside.
About thirty of the local kids were sitting in the field (the land actually belongs to one of the porters) being served hot chocolate and bread. Some snatched, some showed gratitude, usual kid behaviour. One of the little characters saw that a traveller was handing out presents. She conversed with Sibi who gave her another piece of bread but she was not happy with that. She wanted toys!
Then they all skipped off home to share the excess hot chocolate with their siblings and parents. It was refreshing to hear that they all go to school in Lares.
At night we dined on a platter of everything. Sibi told us the plan for day two and we were in bed by 9pm (with a hot water bottle – The Green Machine treated us embarrassingly well).
Day 2: Huacawasi – Condor Pass – Quenayoc
The ascent! We trekked from 7am (wake up call with coca tea 5am then breakfast fit for kings again, PANCAKES) until 11am with ease. The ponchos were on and off then on again. The horse collected one of the team members who was suffering horrific altitude sickness (she felt like she was being forced to walk with the worst hangover or flu); none of Sibi’s magic potions or lotions could lift the pain. The horse was in demand! It also collected a second member to help her along the way. The remaining five were feeling smug; we’d made it to the top. We found a rucksack with an Alpaca cover on it, must be a signal that we had made it? How wrong we were!
The next 35 minutes were horrible. We began the true ascent. Craig ran up (as usual), I felt like I was walking in space. I couldn’t take more than two steps without the feeling that my breath was being stolen from me. It didn’t help that it was so misty; Steph said she thought she was going to meet her maker! Sibi encouraged us all the way.
Then it began to snow. Luckily we had made it to the top where we were unexpectedly greeted with coca tea and a cheese sandwich by one of the porters. Hero! Do you like a challenge? Check out this guide to the Inca Jungle trek to Machu Picchu.
Once we’d regrouped we began the descent, all the hard work was worth it because our next lunch stop looked like this…
One of the group lost colour and looked faint. Sibi ran to base for the oxygen but she pulled through. Day two must be a challenge frequently as The Green Machine had set up a ‘sleeping tent’. As per usual we over ate (just couldn’t say no to the chicken or pasta or bread or veg!) then waddled off into what could only be described as… Scotland!
After we arrived at camp, everyone took a siesta. A few of us made it up at 17:30 for snacks and chats with Sibi. I liked how passionate he was about his country and the positivity he showed for the company and the treatment of its employees. Cena (dinner) arrived and the last supper did not disappoint. The chef baked us a cake! Seriously, I can’t bake a cake in a kitchen with gas and electricity at sea level never mind on a mountain with a stove. Absolute genius.
Day 3: Quenayoc – Pumahuacuanca – Ollataytambo – Aguas Calientes
A breeze. We were allowed a long lie (6am coca call), ate omelette and the best apple pie I’ve ever tasted for breakfast. We then trekked with a short ascent then an easy descent down to 2800m. The walk only took 3.5 hours before we were lunching again. Once ‘tipgate’ was resolved we said goodbye to the immense Green Machine who rewarded us with an Alpaca Expeditions t-shirt. Next we bussed to Ollataytambo.
The cute cobbled town is overlooked by many Inca terraces, some of which are still used for crops today. Sibi gave us a tour of the town and showed us how chicha (an alcoholic beverage) is downed (not suitable for gringos?)
If you see a house with a red flag outside it, this indicates chicha (a kind of beer) is being served. I’ve tasted the non-alcoholic version, chica morada, (ok to drink in cities), which was lush; this one didn’t look that inviting.
The train to Machu Picchu Pueblo (also called Aguas Calientes) from Ollataytambo took 1.5 hours. Inca Rail serve a free beverage and snack, which is a nice touch, you follow the tropical forest and the Amazon River to the destination.
On arrival at the hotel, we showered (much needed hot shower!) and then dined together (all of this was included in the price of the trek).
Day 4: Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu day! Ready to see the seventh modern wonder of the world?
The 5am wake up was draining but worth it. We were up and out for 06:45 but back at the hostel by 7am as Craig forgot our passports. No passports, no entry to Machu Picchu! After the blip, we met the rest of the group and Sibi took us to the perfect photo opportunity spot.
It is difficult to comprehend that people made this city with their hands in 15th century. The architecture and craftsmanship of the houses, terraces and temples are neat yet striking. The Inca peoples’ ingenuity and relationship with nature served them well. It’s sad to see that conflict (invading conquistadors) drove them out and disease killed the skill off. You can see why Incas are proud of their heritage. Sibi’s three hour tour of the city was extensive (the trip to Cusco’s Planetarium had given us a sound base knowledge of the Inca culture, recommended), afterwards we had free time to explore and then make our own way back to Machu Picchu Pueblo for 2pm.
It really wasn’t our day, the llama wouldn’t get a selfie with us (Steph’s was a banger), Craig smashed his IPhone screen, I lost my ticket (the nice office employees printed me another) and the bus back to town was going to cost us 80 soles / £17 each. So we decided to take advantage of our misfortune and one hour of sunshine to trek the path back to Machu Picchu Pueblo. The descent (stairs) took 35 mins then the ascent (seriously, another hill?!) 25 mins. After a pizza (20 soles / £4.36 each) and a glance at the market tat, it was time for the train back to Ollataytambo where Sibi and the Alpaca van collected us and dropped us off in Cusco (near but not at our hostel).
Read this alternative viewpoint – why I hate Machu Picchu.
It’s always really sad to break up the ‘family’ at the end of trips. You get comfortable with your team and it’s refreshing to speak to other people (no offence Craig)! The four-day trek was exceptional and the weather did not drown our spirits. We had some of the best food that we have tasted in Peru! Hats off to The Green Machine.
Was the Lares Trek to Machu Picchu hard? Not really. Was it worth it? Yes! Was it my favourite Peruvian hike? No! Colca Canyon was! Be safe fellow travel lovers, remember to acclimatise before you arrive in Cusco and be armed with quality coverage travel insurance (check quotes here).
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Updated: July 2017