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If, like us, you plan to visit “the Jewel” for the first time you’ll find everything you need to know in this guide. Sections feature a free Belize itinerary, tips on how to get around, accommodation suggestions, and what to eat, drink, and do in each location.
Belize Itinerary
Belize City
While most visitors arrive in the country via Belize City very few will stay there overnight.
There are two airports in Belize City, and confusingly, both are referred to by the same name.
However, Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport is the main base for international flights.
Car rental businesses are located across from the main entrance and should be booked in advance if you plan to drive to San Ignacio or the Hummingbird Highway.
The most popular car rental companies are Crystal and Car One.
We went with Car One because it was cheaper, but it meant our 4×4 was over 12 years old.
This was obvious, the notorious Belizean bumps can age a chassis!
It is advised to reserve a robust car as some accommodations and activities require off-road driving, for example, Sattva Land on the Hummingbird Highway, where we stayed for two glorious nights.
If you don’t want to drive, there are other options.
You can take advantage of a group (affordable) or private (more expensive) shuttle to San Ignacio (we used this one) and hop on day tours to the ATM Cave or the Xunantunich Mayan Ruins.
Use the local “chicken bus” service as we did to get to Placencia in the Stann Creek region.
Or, head straight to the islands of San Pedro (Ambergris Caye) and Caye Caulker by boat from the ferry terminal.
If you are short on time and don’t mind splurging compared to the bus and ferry prices, Belize has a great internal flight service connecting Belize City with San Pedro, Caye Caulker, and Placencia.
Unfortunately, there is no airport in popular San Ignacio.
San Pedro
San Pedro is one of the most popular destinations for first-time visitors.
In truth, we were happy we only spent three nights here; it’s noisy and packed with petrol fumes from golf carts.
Things to do include dining around San Pedro Town (totally walkable, not sure why tourists drive carts among these compact streets), watching the sunrise from the beach, and hiring a golf cart to drive the bumpy road to the Secret Beach waterfront bars where you can sip and dip.
Look out for Panty Rippers on the cocktail menu, delicious!
Where to Eat & Drink
- The Palapa Bar
- Neri’s for breakfast
- Sandra’s Deli
- Izzy’s Smoothies
- Pirate Pizza
- Estel’s
- Rosta’s Pies (takeout, so delicious)
- The Farmhouse
- Truck Stop at sunset
- Secret Beach Bar
- Swings at Secret Beach
Where We Stayed
The Drift Inn: Private room in a hostel with a nice courtyard close to the beachfront although the beaches aren’t really for sunbathing.
Cracking sunrise!
Getting to San Pedro
Fly from Belize City with Tropic or Maya Island Air in less than 20 minutes, or hop on the Belize Ferry Express which takes around 1 hour 20 minutes.
We didn’t pre-book our ferry at Belize City (or onwards to Caye Caulker) but left plenty of time to get a ticket and then chill out in the AC at the bar next to the line.
Note: Ferry schedules, etc are all written in English as Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America.
While you will hear some Spanish and Kriol, most people converse in English, which is the official language.
Just under 10% speak a Mayan language.
Caye Caulker
We absolutely love Caye Caulker and were gutted to leave the “go slow” island.
The island is only around one mile in width but there are so many restaurants, grills, and bars packed into the tiny stretch on both sides, the lagoon and ocean.
Things to do include a snorkel or dive tour, we did the three-hour snorkel trip and swam with nursing sharks and stingrays, definitely a Belize highlight
You don’t have to join a tour to go swimming in the turquoise waters though.
The Split is a free swimming area with a couple of bars including Sip n Dip which has seats in the water.
Watch the intense sunsets by The Split Ferries, and look out for marine life; we saw the sunbathing crocodile, “Slick Rick” by the lagoon during our boat trip!
Do at least one lunch at the grills.
Tip: It’s a challenge to eat lobster without crackers and it attracts flies, try the BBQ Belizean sausage instead!
Where To Eat & Drink
- Amore Cafe
- Errolyn’s House Of Fryjacks
- Fran’s Grill
- Otis’s Grill – try the Belizean sausage
- Ana’s Pupusas (stall)
- Pelican Sunset
- Pasta per Caso – reserve
- Swings
- Sip n Dip
- Ice and Beans
- The Creamery
- Nicco’s Ice Cream
- Caye Caulker Bakery (cheap cinnamon buns)
Where We Stayed
The Caye Hotel for two nights and Caye Caulker Condos which had a balcony and hammocks on the roof; I miss it so much.
Getting to Caye Caulker
There’s a short ferry ride between San Pedro (30 minutes) and an airport which flies to Belize City in around 10 minutes.
San Ignacio
A huge contrast from the islands, San Ignacio is the first of the rainforest locations in our Belize travel guide.
San Ignacio is a bit hilly but you can avoid them if you stay in the town centre by the Macal River.
However, there are great food options at the top of the hill, and a Mayan ruin called Cahal Pec which feels wilder than the bigger, Xunantunich.
Other things include the Saturday market and a day trip to the Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM)
Cave which features three (through) river walks and wading inside the cave by torchlight to see Mayan sacrifices.
It is one of my favourite things I’ve done during a trip, along with swimming with manatees, hiking Colca Canyon, and going to NASA’s space camp.
If you plan to do the cave tour, you have to book in advance with a guide, we used this tour, and pack water shoes with a sturdy bottom as you walk through water, on forest paths, and climb rocks to get to the upper section of the protected cave.
Wear two pairs of socks with your water shoes so you are comfortable when you take them off to walk through the upper cave; this is required to protect the area.
No cameras, GoPros, or phones are allowed in the cave and your belongings are stored in a locked van looked after by tour staff who cook a delicious lunch.
Wear clothes that can get wet and two pairs of socks, then pack water shoes, a quick change of clothes and a towel.
Also, don’t miss the half-day trip to Xunantunich which can be done with a group tour or independently via taxi ride, both options require a very short trip on a hand-cranked ferry across the Mopan River.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Ko-Ox Kan Nah Let’s Go Eat
- The Cozy Restaurant
- Kelly’s Restaurant
- D Coffee Tree – great coffee
- Cahal Perch Village Restaurant – views
- The Ice Cream Shoppe
- Sweet Ting
Where to Stay
We opted for the Hilltop Horizon Hotel and enjoyed swinging on the communal hammocks and reading our books.
Hummingbird Highway
The most overlooked location and true hidden gem in Belize is its Hummingbird Highway.
A long stretch of (mostly paved) road (with speed bumps, of course, it is Belize) with nature on both sides and interesting places to stop along the way.
From the top, ArtBox craft shop and cafe, Belmopan restaurants, St Herman’s Cave, St Herman’s Blue Cave (pay once for both attractions), and Billy Barquedier waterfall which requires you to walk through water, and wear water shoes.
Where to Eat & Drink
- ArtBox
- Belmopan Market
- Wings and Feathers, Belmopan
- Fusion, Belmopan
- Cocogardens, Belmopan
- Sattva Land
Where We Stayed
Stavva Land is a family-owned yoga retreat nestled among greenery.
There’s a natural pool, a beautiful studio, and a dining room with garden views – book the breakfast, the homemade pancakes are worth it.
Toilets and showers are at an outside block, a few minutes walk from the rooms, but the outdoor shower is a cool experience.
The drive to Sattva Land is a bumpy one, so make sure your car can handle it.
How to Get To Hummingbird Highway
Collect a car rental at Belize City and hit the palm tree-lined road!
While the road is paved, it has many speed bumps, the occasional pothole, and random sand piles so be cautious at all times.
We avoided driving at night.
Hopkins
Sleepier than its counterpart, Placencia, Hopkins has a small stretch of resorts leading to a strip of bars, restaurants, and shops some of which open up to the beach.
Don’t be afraid to go back one street or you’ll miss Caitlin the Baker and Kat’s Coffee.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Thongs
- Caitlin’s Bakery
- Kat’s Coffee
- J&J Cool Spot
- Ella’s Cool Spot
Where We Stayed
All Seasons Belize is at the very start of the resort side of the village but close enough to walk into town.
A nice hotel with a shaded courtyard, free bike use, and beach gear.
How To Get To Hopkins
The easiest way to get to Hopkins is by car, continuing from on from the Hummingbird Highway or on the way back from/to Placencia.
Placencia
Located at the southern tip of the Placencia peninsula, Placencia is a cool spot with lots of activity.
There are coffee shops that overlook the main road and a paved sidewalk that connects many of the fun bars and oceanfront hotels.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Carmen’s Kitchen
- Tipsy Tuna
- Cozy Corner
- SmoQiz Bistro
- The Bohemian
- Mr Levy’s BBQ
- Rick’s Cafe
- Rumfish
- The Sea Cow Catina
- Tutti Frutti Gelato
- Rum Bar
- Barefoot Bar
- The Distillery
- The Strange Brew
- Yoli’s
- Above Ground Coffee House
- Brewed Awakening
- Green Parrot, Maya Beach
- Mangos Maya Beach
Where We Stayed
Alan’s Paradise is a budget stay with a large bar, kayaks, and sun loungers on the beach.
They offer free airport pick up which is handy.
How to Get to Placencia
Placencia is well connected by seaplane, car, or chicken bus from Belize City or Belmopan.
Our 3-Week Belize Itinerary
- Hummingbird Highway: 2 nights
- Hopkins: 1 night (drop off car Belize City)
- San Pedro: 3 nights
- Caye Caulker: 4 nights
- San Ignacio: 4 nights (shuttle from Belize City ferry terminal)
- Placencia: 6 nights (chicken bus to Belmopan)
Accommodation in Belize
We stayed in seven different accommodations all of which had a fan and AC as well as WiFi.
Most rooms also included drinking water, or water was available at the reception.
We really enjoyed the hotels with outdoor areas for catching a breeze on a hammock while reading our books.
While many offered free bike rental, it wasn’t needed as the locations were close enough to walk to bars, restaurants, and attractions.
Whether you have three nights or three weeks you’ll be booking your next trip back over a freshly poured pint of Belikin at the airport.
