North Coast 500 Itinerary: Comprehensive, Honest + Free

North Coast 500 Itinerary Guide Scotland Achmelvich Beach

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North Coast 500 spoiler alert. This Scot has a secret to share. I do not mean to alarm or upset but Scotland has been hiding something from you. The north coast has always been there. The turquoise beaches, the fresh fish from line to lips and the friendly locals looking to share a sing-song with you are not new but they definitely are unique and thanks to a strong marketing strategy, the secret is out and Scotland’s North Coast 500 itinerary is on the map. 

The North Coast itinerary is now followed by drivers, cyclists, locals and visitors ticking over the 500 miles (516 to be exact) of ‘Scotland’s Route 66’.

The popular adventure, with four seasons in one day, heading west from Inverness to the top of Scotland’s mainland, John O’Groats, and back down the east coast (or in reverse). This thorough and free NC500 route planner will get you on the road in no time.

Our NC500 Experience

Craig and I (Gemma) made a wise (last minute) decision to stay in the homeland and explore what the North Coast 500 has to offer. I am not a last-minute kind of girl, so cue frantic planning of potential route 500 options which you can now adapt to meet your own travel style and needs.

My Top Tip

Don’t be me, be cool. If you have time – plan ahead, go off the path, be flexible but mindful that the North Coast 500 has blown up over the past year and accommodation books up fast in the summer months. Check out our NC500 accommodation guide.

Oh and word of warning; the further north you go, the stronger the accent gets and the later into the night you drink with the locals, the harder it is to interpret! Ps. We have no affiliation with NC500 at this time. We travel independently and all opinions are our own.

North Coast 500 Map

Before we get started, let’s get our bearings of this Scotland driving route.

Inverness is the starting point at the red target which you can see on the NC500 below.

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route

North Coast 500 Scotland – How Many Days?

One of the most frequent questions I’m asked is – how long does it take to drive 500 miles?

The length of time you spend taking in the sights of this Scottish Highlands road trip really depends on how many days you want to spend in each location, the types of activities you would like to do while on Scotland’s North Coast 500 (hiking, boat tours, whisky?) and quite possibly the availability of accommodation.

We met visitors who zoomed around the route in two days; while VisitScotland suggests up to two weeks.

Do tell us how long you decide to take and why in the comments below.

Stac Pollaidh Ullapool | North Coast 500 Guide

North Coast 500 Itinerary

There is no strict North Coast 500 route – where you stop, stay and play is entirely up to you but here is a flavour of the villages and activities we think make up the best North Coast 500 places to visit.

There’s also no right or wrong direction to drive it.

One thing that is certain, you can’t predict the Scottish weather.

It is possible to experience four seasons in one day, so plan and pack accordingly.

Be sure to pack a good quality waterproof like my new Rupal by Mountain Equipment US / UK.

You may also like our NC500 packing list

John o Groats signpost bright North Coast 500 Scotland_

Inverness to Shieldaig, Torridon (99 miles)

North Coast 500 Itinerary Inverness to Torridon

Inverness is the gateway to the Scottish Highlands!

Visitors can check out the first of many castles on the North Coast 500 – Urquhart Castle.

You may also want to hop aboard the 88ft version of the Titanic or have a tot of whisky and dance at Hootenanny.

If you want to get on the water before the road, Loch Ness boat tours are also available from Inverness.

Culloden Battlefield is also close by (although veering to the east); stand on the ground of the last Jacobite rebellion in 1746.

In Inverness you will find large superstores so you can purchase food and gas/petrol before you hit the road.

The route starts going over the Kessock Bridge on the A9.

Where to Stay in Inverness

Inverness city skyline, bridge, sea, NC500 route

Bealach ‘na Ba, Wester Ross (yes Game of Thrones fans!)

From Inverness, we started our journey to the infamous Bealach ‘na Ba (pronounced Bell-ach-na-baa) in Wester Ross.

At the start of the Bealach ‘na Ba, which is Scottish Gaelic for Pass of the Cattle, there is a sign that warns new drivers not to attempt it!

Bealach na Bar Sign North Coast 500 Scotland_

Like many of the NC500 roads, the Bealach ‘na Ba is an A road also known as a single track road (only one lane for going and coming).

If you are the passenger and have the confidence to take your eyes off the hairpin bends, check out the scenery!

Don’t be surprised to see cyclists pedalling away or campervans trying to get by.

Car window Bealach na Ba Road Scotland Road trip

Our Scottish A roads have areas by the side of the road called ‘passing places’ – it’s customary to pull in and let someone by.

Please do remember that this road is everyday use for locals, not just a challenge for holidaymakers.

Bealach Na Ba NC500 Route


Everyone raves about the beauty of Applecross and rightly so.

Although remote, Applecross village is visited by many tourists and on a dry day they flock to the seated area outside of The Applecross Inn, which is a popular dinner stop (food served 12-9pm) for those who love game meat and fish.

Check out our guide on Scottish food, haggis is not a furry animal that runs about the hills!

At the Inn, I tried langoustine for the first time, while Craig struggled to eat (picky eater). I hope you are ready for delicious fresh fish on this Scotland road trip.

Langostine, Applecross Inn Scotland

Applecross is home to one of the North Coast 500 campsites (you have to reserve your spot, see our NC500 camping article).

Do not camp without purchasing Avon Skin So Soft US / UK as the midges are out in force from May until September in Applecross. Sands beach is approximately 4 miles from the Applecross.

Applecross Inn Scotland, people sitting at lunch

Stunning Shieldaig

Our final stop for the day was Shieldaig, Torridon. This small village is postcard perfect. We stayed at the top of the hill with views of Shieldaig Island on tap.

Shieldaig | North Coast 500 Hotels Guide

There is a campsite located here which I would consider in the future. We dined on a shared stone-baked pizza from the local pub and a few drinks to end day one of our Scotland road trip. 

Shieldaig Torridon | North Coast 500

Shieldaig to Ullapool (123 miles)

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route Torridon to Ullapool

Although the village of Shieldaig is sublime, you’ll be thankful to leave because next up is the experience of driving through the mountains of Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve.

No, you’ve not taken a wrong turn into New Zealand or Canada – this is Scotland!

If you are looking for a unique stay, Shieldaig Lodge Hotel is one of the few remaining traditional Highland shooting lodges open to the public.


Gairloch is a small village with a couple of sandy beaches (Big Sand and Red Point) and another couple of coffee shops.

Gairloch is home to one of the most scenic golf courses in the country (world), good luck focusing on your swing with views of the Isle of Skye ahead.

There are also boat tours in Gairloch for those looking to try to catch a glimpse of minke, humpback or killer whales.

One of the boat tours available is offered in a glass-bottom boat so you can see what lurks beneath the shores!

Keep an eye out of Bob, the resident seal.

The Gairloch Hotel offers free parking and breakfast and is less than 10 minutes walk to the beach.

Myrtyle Hotel is another popular choice in Gairloch.

NC500 Scotland Beaches

From Gairloch to Ullapool you are spoiled for beaches on the NC500.

Mellon Udrigle Beach (Wester Ross) is the first of that white sand and turquoise waters that legends talk of and I can confirm, it is no myth, they do exist. Bring a picnic and your camera, and kayak?

Mellon Udrigle NC500

Gruinard Bay (Ross and Cromarty) is slightly redder toned and larger. Both beaches have car parks close to the entrance point. Gruinard Bay requires a short walk downhill.

Gruinard Bay, Scotland, sand, sea North Coast 500 NC 500

Ullapool – The Big Village in Ross-shire

Ullapool is the biggest village on the west coast of the North Coast 500, 1500 inhabitants call this place home and many of them have not so hidden talents.

Ullapool is a mecca for music lovers, especially those on the ‘trad scene’, like my good friend Kim. You can see/hear her sing here!

There is always some form of performance, planned or not, kicking off at The Ceilidh Place, The Arch Inn or the Argyll Hotel.

Ullapool is also home to the Stac Pollaidh for visitors hoping to do a self-guided North Coast 500 hike.

Stac Pollaidh Ullapool | NC500 Route

This easy hill walk takes approximately two hours and the views from the top are now amongst my favourite in Scotland.

Car park spaces are available at the bottom of Stac Pollaidh, please keep to the designated hike trail for your safety.

If you have ample time and fancy a sidestep to the Outer Hebrides there are daily ferries to the Isle of Lewis (Stornoway) from Ullapool. We visited Harris and Lewis recently, it really is a special place.

Stac Pollaidh hill, Ullapool Scotland

Where to Stay

For more NC500 accommodation options, check out our guide here.

Ullapool, houses, sea, sky, mountain_

Ullapool – Kylesku Bridge (66 miles)

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route Ullapool to Kylesku Bridge

Ardvreck Castle, Loch Assynt

Within a short drive from Ullapool, you will reach the ruins of Ardvreck Castle and Calda House on the banks of Loch Assynt.

This 15th-century castle was once home to the Macleod Clan then taken over by Mackenzies who then lost the three-story Castle to the Crown.

Calda House, which is closer to the road, was the modern home built by the Mackenzies.

Ardvrek Castle NC 500 Route 500

Lochinver on the Route 500

The main reason people visit Lochinver is to purchase a pie from the Lochinver Larder.

These pies come in sweet and savoury fillings, can be eaten in (£8.45 with salad/£14.35 as a main) or out (£5.35-5.55) or even posted home.

Craig, the pie connoisseur feels that Lochinver pies are overpriced thus leaving a bad taste in his mouth.

The NC500 trip is not cheap; expect a 1/3 mark up on food and on central belt prices. Check out what we spent via our NC500 budget below.

B869 – It’s Incredible

Wow, this road (or loop for us) is special and well worth taking the time to drive along the coast.

This area feels like Star Trek has beamed you up (Scotty) and you’ve landed on the lunar surface. 

The surrounding hills swallow you whole but your escape is possible if you head for the water.

Yes! More of those Highland beaches (Achmelvich Beach and Clachtoll Beach) are tucked away amongst the winding roads and engulfing hills.

Experienced hikers may want to consider the striking Suilven Mountain in the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve which is close to Lochinver.

Personally, I felt that this part of our NC500 itinerary covered plenty for one day. However, we headed to Kylesku Hotel for a coffee, food comes recommended by others but the kitchen was closed so we could not sample it.

Kylesku Bridge

Kylesku Bridge is built over the Loch a’ Chàirn Bhàin, replacing the ferry service in the 1980s.

This is only my opinion but I wouldn’t go out of my way to visit the Kylesku area, you can blame the outrageously overwhelming beauty of the B869 for this advice! 

On night three, we actually returned to Ullapool as we struggled to find accommodation available on the route to Durness.

However, you may want to consider the options detailed in our North Coast accommodation guide.

(Ullapool or) Kylesku Bridge – Durness (42 miles)

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route North Coast 500 Itinerary Route Ullapool to Kylesku Bridge to Durness

Leaving Ullapool (again) head north to Cape Wrath, leave early (and be flexible) if you plan to take the ferry ride over the Kyle of Durness and then the bus to the most northern-westerly lighthouse on the mainland.

Ferry times vary depending on the time of year, and weather throughout the day.

There was no afternoon ferry when we arrived. Check the Cape Wrath website for details.

The trip lasts three hours and there are no bathroom facilities so be prepared before you leave. The closest facilities in Durness.

Did you know that the MOD owns a large part of Cape Wrath and use it for training?

Craig’s Dad is an ex-MOD diver and has spent a fair bit of time in the waters up here!

Balnakeil Beach

As you drive up the northwest you will see this massive stretch of white sand poking out in the distance.

On approach you will discover that Balnakeil Beach is different from the others; it has sand dunes layered up at the back of it with cows grazing on any spare grass! 

Balnakeil Beach North Coast 500


Durness is known for two things – Smoo cave and Chocolate Mountain. Smoo Cave is free to enter and open every day of the year.

It costs £5 to take the small boat ride deeper into the cave where the tour guides tell you about their successful discoveries and scary encounters (May-September). Wear closed-toe footwear.

To get to Smoo Cave, drive past the tourist information centre and park at the YMCA hostel or the cave car park (can get busy). Walk down the pathway to the beach and cave entry.

Chocolate Mountain is tucked away in Durness’s Balnakeil Craft Village and sells ‘the world’s best chocolate’ and truffles at tourist prices.

Hot Chocolate, cup, plate, table, Chocolate Mountain North Coast 500 Durness_

The village is also home to the John Lennon Memorial Garden, the Beatles singer used to holiday in Durness with his family as a kid and visited again with his own. 

Durness has one of the most beautiful campsites I’ve seen but if windy there is limited coverage. The site has a restaurant/pub on the side of it (was closed until 18:30 when we visited).

Sidestep Trip: Handa Island

Tarbet of the northwest, not to be confused with Tarbert on the west coast near Oban, is the gateway to Handa Island where you can do a spot of puffin watching (we ran out of time, let us know how it goes).

Tarbet is reached after Unapool (near Kylesku) and Scourie but before Cape Wrath and Durness.

Durness – John o’ Groats (90 miles)

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route Durness - John o Groats

Borgie Glen

For a really unique thing to do on the North Coast 500, visit Borgie Glen to meet The Unknown.

The sculpture by artist Kenny Hunter can be found on the Lonesome Pine Trail which is a short 3/4 mile trail.

Thurso (Caithness)

The northernmost town of the Scottish mainland, Thurso, is known for its surf!

Yes, surfing in Scotland. Thurso East is located at the mouth of the Thurso River and has hosted surf competitions.

Move over Gold Coast * waves *, the east coast is in town. Naturally, we don’t get the sun like Australia so dress accordingly (suits not shorts).

For more on what to pack – read our NC500 packing list.

Thurso North Coast 500 Scotland_

We stayed at the Thurso Camping and Caravan Park which we managed to get a spot last minute.

The site facilities are basic but the shower water is hot.

You can see Orkney from the campsite!

This private 2-bed apartment is ideal for couples or families. It has a sitting room and washing machine which is great for this stage of the NC500 route.

Thurso Campsite Campervan North Coast 500 Scotland_

Dunnet Head (Caithness)/John o’ Groats

At Dunnet Head, you’ve reached the ‘end of the road’ – the most northern tip of mainland Scotland! 

There isn’t much to see here bar a sign telling you you’ve reached this Scotland highlight.

The drive up and down is nice but if you’re short on time, you could skip it.

Dunnet Head North Coast 500 Scotland_

Visitors can take the scenic coastal path from John o’ Groats to Duncansby Head (reminds me of the Isle of Skye) and the Stacks of Duncansby.

If the visibility is poor, is quite easy to miss the Duncanbsy Stacks and if you do you will be gutted!

We had whiteout then rain, a double rainbow then sunshine within 15 minutes up there!

Duncansby Lighthouse Rainbow North Coast 500 Scotland_

To get to the Stacks, face the lighthouse and walk over the field with sheep to your right.

You’ll walk for around 5 minutes until the tear-shaped stacks come into sight.

The Castle of Mey is a fortress dating back to the 16th century located between Duncansby Head and your next stop, John o’ Groats.

Duncansby Stack on North Coast 500 Scotland_

John o’ Groats – Wick (16.4 miles)

Alight at John O’Groats for a sidestep to Orkney or just take a picture of that famous white sign and hit the road again.

There isn’t too much to see at John o’ Groats itself but you can grab lunch, an ice cream and a picture at the iconic sign then hop back in the car or take a ferry to Orkney.

You can do a day trip to Orkney if you are limited in time but really you’d want at least two days on the island.

John o Groats Boats Houses North Coast 500 Scotland_

Note: Feel free to stop at John o’ Groats before Duncansby Head if you are driving the anti-clockwise. It doesn’t really matter which attraction you do first.

Driving down the coast from John o’ Groats to Wick look out for Old Keiss Castle overlooking Sinclair’s Bay and Ackergill Tower which used to be a 5-star hotel.

If you prefer to stay in the area, check out these options.

John o Groats signpost Gem North Coast 500 Scotland_

Wick – Golspie (52 miles)

There are handful for cafes, restaurants and takeaway shops in Wick if you are ready to eat.

Wick is separated into Wick proper, and Pulteneytown and a river called Wick River runs through it.

If using public transport, Wick has a train station.

Wick Bridge Flower North Coast 500 Scotland_

Back on the A9 road again, if coming from west to east, keep an eye out for the striking white building on the cliff around Dunbeath. That’s Dunbeath Castle, a luxury wedding venue.

Stop for food or tea and cake at the adorable River Bothy in Berriedale.

This cafe as indoors and outside seating, incredible cakes and a gift shop.

River Bothy Cafe Berriedale North Coast 500 Scotland_
River Bothy Cafe in Berriedale North Coast 500 Scotland_
Pancakes River Bothy Cafe in Berriedale North Coast 500 Scotland_

Helmsdale (Sutherland) town itself has a parking, a couple of pubs with beer gardens and a harbour.

This was a resettlement town built in 1814.

Helmsdale North Coast 500 Scotland_

On the road to Golspie, the water by Victoria Road has patches of turquoise, a reminder you are in the Scottish Highlands! Brora is the next village

Just before entering Golspie you must stop at Dunrobin Castle!

This fairytale stately home on the east coast of the Highlands has 189 rooms, some of which the public can view.

Dunrobin Castle pond gardens North Coast 500 Scotland_
Dunrobin Castle Dining Room North Coast 500 Scotland_
Dunrobin Castle Painting North Coast 500 Scotland_

Its the gardens which win it for me. Huge rhubarb plants, ponds with fountains, well-manicured grass and tree tunnels.

A photographer’s dream!

The gardens and castle overlook the Dornoch Firth.

This area isn’t just about beauty though.

This is where locals were forced to move from their fertile land during the Highland Clearances.

Some left voluntarily, others had no choice when their homes were burnt down with their possessions still in it.

Dunrobin Castle Craig Gemma Fountain gardens North Coast 500 Scotland_
Dunrobin Castle Gardens North Coast 500 Scotland_
Dunrobin Castle Gemma Holding Hat North Coast 500 Scotland_

Golspie – Inverness (52 miles)

The last leg of the east coast of the NC500 takes you down to The Black Isle which is a collection of villages and hamlets.

Head over the Dornoch Firth Bridge, popping into The Glenmorangie Distillery for a tour.

If you like golf, enjoy a game at Tain Golf Course.

Drive over Cromarty Bridge to the town of Cromarty for a coffee or a meal at Sutor Creek and check out the Scottish geologist and writer, Hugh Miller Cromarty Trail for heritage homes and buildings.

Cromarty is a great base for the Black Isle, check out this garden studio for availability.

Cromarty Bridge Fields North Coast 500 in Scotland_
Hugh Miller Trail Cromarty on North Coast 500 in Scotland_
House Cromarty on North Coast 500 in Scotland_

I like this area of the Highlands as it feels like real life with the North Sea oil rigs resting in the Cromarty Firth.

Cromarty Oil Rigs North Coast 500 in Scotland_

Next stop is Rosemarkie (Fortrose) for the family-friendly Groam House Museum to find out about Pictish life.

Fairy Glen is close to Rosemarkie which is 3K hike with waterfalls.

Groam House Museum Flowers Fortrose on North Coast 500 in Scotland_
Groam House Museum Mosiacs on North Coast 500 in Scotland_

Finally, put on a layer and pull up at Chanonry Point to see the local dolphins who like the shallow Moray Firth waters for fishing!

There’s a pebble beach which looks over to Fort George, this is where we spotted the dolphins doing some relaxed diving in the distance.

There is also a golden sand beach for sandcastles.

Parking is available at Chanonry Point.

Chanonry Point Lighthouse Scottish Highland NC500
Chanonry Point Lighthouse Craig Scottish Highland NC500
Chanonry Point Beaches Scottish Highland NC500

NC 500 Itinerary – Castles

If one of the main reasons you’ve chosen the NC500 route is for its castles and ruins you are in for a treat. From Inverness clockwise here is a list of some of the castles you may want to explore or look out for.

  • Inverness Castle visitor attraction
  • Ardvrek Castle ruins     
  • Old Keiss Castle ruins
  • Castle of Mey visitor attraction
  • Dornoch Castle Hotel which you can stay in
  • Mansfield Castle
  • Dunrobin Castle

You can actually stay in the castle on the east coast! There are four options to choose from and they are affordable starting at £120 in low season. Read our guide to hotel castles here.

» Hey, Outlander fans! Click here to read about the hit TV filming locations

North Coast 500 Itinerary Route John o Groats to Inverness

Distilleries on the North Coast 500

The water of life, whisky, plays such a large part of Scottish culture and tourism.

For those who like a dram and/or a wee story during their holiday should check out one of the many whisky distilleries dotted around the east coast of the NC500 such as Dunnet Bay Distillery (Dunnet near John o’ Groats), the Balblair Distillery or Glenmorangie (close to Tain), Dalmore Distillery, GlenWyvis, and Glen Ord Distillery (near Dingwall).

Glenmorangie Distillery North Coast 500 in Scotland_

If you are limited on time and whisky sampling is your goal, I would suggest heading east first!

There is a zero-tolerance for drink driving in Scotland.

This means that the ‘day after’ is just a big of an issue as the night before.

Please ensure you have a designated driver or dip into the distilleries with a pre-arranged bus/driver tour.

If whisky wets your whistle you want to head west to the Isle of Islay and pay homage to her eleven distilleries (best make it a long weekend trip). 

» Read next | How to plan a road trip in Scotland

North Coast 500 Itinerary Distilleries


500 (ish) miles later your NC500 tour is over, get out of the car and consider bagging one of our many Munros to stretch out the legs.

Camper Fortrose on North Coast 500 in Scotland_

North Coast 500 Tips
GPS, Mapping and Not Killing Each Other

We trialled using Google Maps to guide us through the NC500 and with a bit of planning it worked well.

For the most part, your 3/4G will not work (write out/screenshot accommodation addresses and telephone numbers) when in WiFi and the areas you would like to visit using the directions function of Maps, hit the three dots and select ‘add the route to home screen’.

Before you leave your accommodation, start the directions; you can’t do this out of WiFi/4G.

The blue dot will become your best friend.

Note, we could not add Cape Wrath or Balnakeil Beach to our North Coast 500 map.

It is against the law to use your mobile/cell phone while driving in the UK and the roads you are navigating are going to be tough at times so I would recommend a phone holder attached to your dashboard.

Try one with a magnetic part you place in between your phone and cover which keeps the phone neatly attached to the holder.

You can also download this free NC500 map.

Wheelchair users, you may find this guide useful. 

» You may also like out guide | How to plan a road trip in Scotland

How Much Does the NC500 Cost?

Dig deep Scotland lovers; this can be an expensive ride! Here’s an example of pricing along the route.

  • Accommodation: Ranging from £68+ per night
  • Campervan pitch on campsites: £28-35
  • Food: Plated fish and chips £8-10
  • Ice cream cone: £2
  • Dunrobin Castle: £12

Naturally, you could do this cheaper by opting for the youth hostels and campsites on the NC500 or you could go all out and stay in castles. Our accommodation guide has options for every budget.

This was an independent trip. This means we were not hosted by Visit Scotland, regional tourist boards, hotels or any tours.

Animals on the NC500

This route is rugged which means you will not only be sharing the road with locals but also wildlife.

Expect to see sheep, deer, cows, Heilan coos if you look hard, and puffins if you do the Handa Island day trip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Driving in Scotland Difficult?

We drive on the left in the UK, which I’m sure you are aware of. It is more common for drivers in the UK to use manual (shift stick) cars however it is not uncommon to hire an automatic car.

Unbelievably, there are no road signs indicating that you are on the North Coast 500 route, which baffles me since it is so heavily marketed.

However, there are the typical brown tourist information signs which indicate where tourists hotspots are.

Remember to check your oil, water and air tyre levels before you leave each day.

Petrol stations are available on the NC500, petrol is obviously more expensive than other areas of the country and it is wise to fill up whenever you see a station (some are manned, others are self-use machines like in Durness). 

If this itinerary seems daunting, let someone else do the driving! There are now three NC500 tours.

What About Hiring a Car?

Car hire is available in the main airports or cities.

Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, Inverness city and airports all have car rental pickups, Dundee city also has options.

You will need your driving license and a credit card to hire a car in the UK. I used to work for Avis Rent Car in Edinburgh and Glasgow (while I studying at university), I always recommend taking out the additional insurance.

Car rental companies bump up the charge of damage. Here’s more advice on international car hire

Arriving in Edinburgh? you may like our guide to 101 things to do there.

Scotland flag, skyline, shadow Craig, Stac Pollaidh, Craig, Ullapool Scotland_

Which Way Should I Do the North Coast 500

This is a personal preference. If you are a whisky lover, start at the east and hit the many distilleries with a designated driver then you will have the thrill of the west coast as you hit the second half.

If you love turquoise seas with white sands start at the West Coast and take on the Bealach na Ba into Applecross!

Which way to do you go? Tell me in the comments below!

Is the North Coast 500 Signposted?

There are signs but these don’t mention the NC500 so you will need to know what location you are looking for.

The signs are the general brown tourist information signs (because the NC500 was set up by a collection of private companies and not Visit Scotland).

John o Groats signpost North Coast 500 Scotland_

Where Does the North Coast 500 Start?

The official start is at Inverness but there are many areas you might want to explore before you go such as Glenfinnan (Harry Potter train viaduct), Kyle of Lochalsh (Eilean Donan Castle) and the Cairngorms.

What is Camping Around the NC500 Like?

The NC500 can be done on a budget thanks to hostels and campsites dotted around the route.

There are many well-equipped campsites dotted around the NC500 route, some need to be booked in advance, others are a free-for-all. Many welcome motorhomes, as well as tents and, have electrical spots for rent.

Please consider that the NC500 camping grounds have been holiday destinations for families long before the route was created.

You can wild camp on the NC500 too! Do we aware of the wild camping rules which we discuss extensively in our guide to camping on the North Coast 500.

Oh, I can’t forget to mention the wee problem of midges! Keep reading to find out more.

Thurso Campsite Campervan Window North Coast 500 Scotland_

Is the North Coast 500 suitable for motorhomes?

Yes, it is but they are an annoyance to locals. Work on driving your motorhome (rented or owned) before heading north and do be cautious of how tricky the Bealach na Bá is to drive in a small car nevermind large motorhome.

» Check out our guide to camping and motorhomes on the NC500

Tractor Road North Coast 500 Scotland_

When is the Best Time to Visit NC500?

Yes, it’s true; Scotland’s weather is temperamental.

The spring to summer months of April to July enjoys more sunshine but the weather can change quickly to rain and the wind.

The winter months of November to February are best to be avoided.

The weather can have a great impact on Scotland’s infrastructure, A roads become more dangerous and ferries are prone to closure.

Naturally, Scotland sees more daylight in the summer months where you can expect up to 17 hours, this drops to as low as 6 hours in winter so consider this when planning your Scotland NC500 trip. Then there are our local fiends, the midges.

Dunrobin Castle Gemma Craig Kiss Fountain gardens North Coast 500 Scotland_

What are Midges?

Nicaragua has Mosquitos; the North Coast 500 has midges! Midges are small flying insects that nip the skin and leave a mark.

These bites are often itchy, some people swell up in reaction to the bites (bizarrely I react like Quasimodo to mosquitos abroad but not midges in Scotland), others do not even notice them.

How do I Avoid Midges?

You can’t, they are attracted to the C02 in your breath, so unless you stop breathing (I don’t suggest this option) you are most likely to meet one and then their pals along the way. After they recognise the CO2 they look for other things like odour, heat, movement, until they find your juicy skin.

You can, however, avoid areas of high midge count like still and humid conditions at dusk (like you would with mosquitos).

They don’t like the wind so although it may be ruining your holiday photos, it is keeping the mass midge party at bay.

They hate hot summers, we don’t but they don’t happen often unfortunately although we cannot complain since we have that lush green landscape.

How Can I Repel Midges?

There are two options, avoid the above conditions and times of year (tricky if you are camping or even moving out side a car) or purchase a repellent such as Avon So Soft US / UK.

That’s Midges Sorted, How Do I Avoid The Crowds?

The Scottish schools go back the second week in August so Summer officially ends for families then.

The holidays begin at the end of June so, to avoid the route as its busiest I would suggest crossing out July.

Avoid the busier towns like Ullapool (I don’t really want to say that because I love Ullapool) and opt for camping stead of booked accommodation.

The Dark Side of the North Coast 500

I was elated to see my home country gain so much attention through the North Coast 500 advertisement however not everyone is.

Many locals feel that the infrastructure around the Highlands is not set up for this number of family cars, sports cars and campervans.

A park ranger we met in Ullapool showed disgust to the way that holidaymakers were treating the NC500 environment especially to those who are using the side of the road as a toilet (for a number two).

They said that there is a greater need for facilities. So please be cautious that you are using the roads that locals use every day, treat nature with respect and use the flipping loos on your coffee stops.

Scotland operates on a ‘leave no trace’ policy. Please respect that. Take everything with you, including fruit skin which takes time to decompose.

Littering is a criminal offence so you will be fined if caught. Just don’t be a moron.

Motorhomes and campervans should dispose of waste at one of the designated campsites on the NC500. Read more here.

Duncansby Lighthouse Rainbow Craig Campervan North Coast 500 Scotland_

Our NC500 Guides

We have written extensively about the NC500 to help you during your planning:

Go Slow Cromarty North Coast 500 in Scotland_

Final Words

Whether you are in browsing or in planning mode, I hope you’ve enjoyed our free North Coast 500 itinerary.

The beauty of the NC500, and Scotland overall, is that there’s so much to see, whether you have two days or two weeks, you’ll be left wanting more so… haste ye back!

Achmelvich Beach Scotland NC500

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145 thoughts on “North Coast 500 Itinerary: Comprehensive, Honest + Free

  1. Marilyn says:

    Great review. My husband and I are looking at travelling the NC500 in late July/early August. He does not like booking accommodation ahead of time but find somewhere to stay when we arrive (worries me!). Are we likely to have trouble finding accommodation that way? Will we spend most of the time sleeping in the car?!

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      You definitely need to give him a nudge unless you like camping?! My friend left it late last July (we booked one week before and there was limited choice) and had to change her plans. Do not underestimate how popular the route is now. Here’s our NC500 accommodation guide, something for every budget!

      • Steve says:

        There are A roads and then there are A roads , yes we are up for the adventure I work on the theory if the bin lorry
        can get through well I can .

        • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

          I like that measurement! Are you part of the Scotland Travel Society on Facebook? Would be a good place to ask. Bealach na Ba would be my main concern.

  2. Ian and Laura Donovan says:

    Hi we (wife, myself and dennis the dog) are doing half the west coast of it in mid April for the first time in our motor home and we can`t wait, (fantastic blog by the way) applecross is my main concern but if bigger vans can do so can we, it looks and sounds great and hopefully we`ll miss the midges but if we don`t we don`t. Eat, drink and be merry and take in the views.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      How I like my trips! Just take your time, locals are used to us lot trying. Please come back to me and let me know how you get on. Lucky Dennis by the way!

  3. Suzanne Darroch says:

    I love your blog. Have had a wee house in Caithness for over 24 years for holidays , not sold on NC500 for a night or two, as I think the area needs more time to explore, than on a road trip in 5-6 days. Northern Scotland, East and West, is beautiful and different. Anyone doing NC500, please enjoy the scenery and support the local people and give respect to those who use these roads on a daily basis. It is not a holiday for them. Some roads are a bit different but full of character.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Definitely agree with respecting the roads, they do have ‘character’. Thanks for reading and the kind words! I hope this summer is fruitful for you.

  4. chris McLaughlin says:

    hi iv been inspired by your report i have currently bought a bongo and plan to do the nc 500 on the 30-3-2018 and i am so looking forward to it

  5. Joanna says:

    myself, my husband and two children 17 An 14 have planned the NC500 late July/early August for my husbands 50th bday. We had read reviews about booking accommodation before so have all sat down together and booked our over night stays. We are staying at Edinburgh for 2 nights then overnight stays along the NC500. We’re staying at Inverness, Gailoch, Lochiver, Tongue, john o Groats, Tain then down to Fort William for our last night. Your review sounds fantastic and makes us even more excited. We didn’t know about the chocolate mountain now the kids are excited and have added this to their to do lists ?. (Smoo cave was already on our to do list). My husband is from Liverpool and he didn’t know about the John Lennon memorial so that’s also been added to our list. One of our over night stays is at a camping pod at john o Groats so really hope we get the weather for this one?. But we’re from Manchester so we are use to the rain. Excited to try some good seafood and the whole driving/scenery experience! Roll on holidays.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Ahhh I love this! Wishing you all of the positive weather vibes! I’m actually heading down to Liverpool and possibly Newcastle in July. Big fan of Liverpool, very friendly people and great food/drink scene! Come back and tell me how you get on and remember the Smidge/Avon So Soft (here’s our NC500 packing guide).

  6. stella teddy says:

    You say you have no affiliation with the 500 people and yet this article sounds remarkably like a promo for them. They and all they cretinous people who have taken up their publicity have ruined this area of Scotland for people who really appreciate it. No one with any sensitivity would go there now. Hideous and just a money making exercise for petrol heads, camper van rentals and the 500 themselves who actually sell merchandise and ‘memberships’ for people who need them to give them directions where to go and where to stay because they can’t work these things out for themselves.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      100% no affiliation, they don’t pay any content creators as far as I am aware. We did this in our time and with our own money and really don’t appreciate you accusing me otherwise. Scotland is stuck in the 90s when it comes to paid online marketing.

      I don’t actually know anyone that has paid the NC500 company themselves. The people who come to us via our articles read as if they are flying solo, many have visited the area themselves as kids and are now taking their partners and own children.

      I recommend you take your complaints to NC500 themselves who have the money, paid staff, time and the power to make the changes that you are looking for as opposed to attacking an unpaid content creator.

  7. Tobias says:

    Hi love your plan I am going to deffo follow it one quick question we plan to be spontaneous and kind of stay where we like but we like to mix up wild camping with normal camping in our camper van do all the campsite get fully booked we are going last weekend of May


    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Thanks for writing Tobias. I’ve just published a camping guide here. If it was just you and the car I would say last summer you would have gotten away with the campsites and wild camping but I wouldn’t want to say so with the campervan. Grey area re wild camping on the NC500 since technically wild camping rules state you should not be near any roads (where would you leave the campervan?) Check out our camping guide and good luck, it’s a beautiful trip!

  8. Shira says:

    Great wee guide! Will be using all your tips in July when we’ll head there for 6-7 days with our converted (kind-of-)camper 😀

  9. Danny says:

    Hi Gemma and Craig, thanks for this awesome blog post.
    My wife and I are overseas Scots too, and during our trip home for the summer we’re going to attempt Glasgow/Ayr to Inverness, NC500, across to Skye and back to Glasgow/Ayr.
    We’ll definitely be using your suggestions as a guide, especially as we are attempting it all within 4 days (including the overnight on Skye).
    Wish us luck!

  10. Tom Hess says:

    Thanks for for this blog post. We are currently planning our 10-day NC500 with a possible trip over to Orkney in early September. Will definitely be using this post as a guide. Thanks!

  11. Chrissie says:

    Hi Gemma ,
    Thanks forgetting together your NC500 itinerary. It’s been incredibly helpful in planning my tour for early August (6-14)2018. So excited and have found incredibly good value accommodation with Air B and B, plus one luxury night at Smoo Lodge ( it has to be done!) Am slightly nervous about driving Bealach na Ba on my own but have driven some pretty hairy roads in Italy and drove 2500 miles round Europe one summer with my 2 kids so I guess I’ll survive. Don’t want to miss those views. I live in Kent and cannot WAIT to escape the heatwave – 30 degrees forecast for all of this week. Have even booked a Thai Cookery course for my first night in Edinburgh which is part of the Fringe.
    Just wondering if my Sat Nav will work in Scotland – it’s a fairly old Tom Tom. Any advice?

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Sounds wonderful! Don’t worry about the Bealach na Ba, just take it slow and use the pull in stops when you need to. We downloaded our route on Google maps when we had WiFi and let it run with no issues. Can’t speak for your Tom Tom I’m afraid. Come back and tell me how you get on!

  12. Kellie Bright says:

    A hoi hoi! We’re an Aussie family heading to Edinburgh mid-Oct. Wanting to drive up to Durness and back to Edinburgh in 5 days. The trick? We’ve got kids aged 4 and 2. So we’re hoping to keep our driving to a minimum. Thinking Fort William, Ullapool, Durness then back down. Would you accept the challenge of helping with the our itinerary ? We’re not sure how to get from Durness back to Edinburgh with only one night stopover. Love some input!

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Howdy! What a treat for you and the kids. We’ve driven Durness to Inverness and stopped for the night (2 hours 40 mins). Was tedious but manageable. Then you would 3 hours ish back to Edinburgh the next day.

  13. Jennifer says:

    Thanks for the Itinerary. We are flying over from Israel to do the NC500 and we are going to do exactly what u planned!
    It’s so helpful and informative….
    Thank you…

  14. Vivien says:

    Thank you very much for sharing the wonderful information !

    You may need to revise the mileage between
    Ullapool – Kylesku Bridge (109 miles)

    which is about 65 miles according to Google.

  15. Peter says:

    Wow! I have driven up to Inverness and I never imagined there was anything so gorgeous beyond. I will definitely do the NC500 at some point.

    I just came back from the Republic of Congo. I would also highly recommend it.. Brazzaville to Ouesso. Pristine hot, humid, sauna-like jungle. Starkly different from the NC500 I would guess…. But hey.. It’s our earth to explore.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Starkly different indeed! Hands up, I’ve never been to the African continent. Sounds pretty epic. What were the bugs like? You are in for a treat past Inverness, I wish I could see it with new eyes. We recently went to Harris and Lewis whcih were also incredible [and empty].

  16. Peter says:

    The mosquitoes in Congo were pretty bold! I was told they like new blood. Lol. But it was manageable though. You just need insect repellant and probably a mosquito net because it is not all hotels that will have them. Africa is epic by the way. The landscapes are overwhelming. I did the road trip from Johannesburg in South Africa to Bulawayo in Zimbabwe and it was just amazing. I am planning to do Cape-town, Windhoek, Gaborone as soon as I get funds. I have been told it is breathtaking.

    • Gemma I Two Scots Abroad says:

      Honestly, it doesn’t matter what I do, those mozzies love me. Great tip about nets, something I’d assume hotels had. We are really digging road trips at present so this is sounding very appealing. Was everything you needed for the ride accessible?

  17. Peter says:

    Everything was accessible. Infact, I stayed in a very nice Airbnb in Cape-town. You can get pretty much anything. It all depends on your budget. There are even companies out there that will assist you to organise the trip and advise on what you need. The Republic of Congo was also a pleasant surprise. Very laid back, safe and pristine countryside. The famous Congo River flows by the capital city of Brazzaville and it is a sight to behold. There are nice little pubs where they play live music and people generally sit outside sipping their drinks/coffee. The hotels are decent but can be abit pricey due to the expats in the oil companies. But yeah, you have the open road to yourself – and the crickets! They say Africa is addictive and now I can see why.

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