Diving in Cuba I Travel Budget for 3 Weeks in Cuba

Cheapest Scuba Diving in Cuba Review

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Everyone says that scuba diving in Cuba is done at some of the best diving spots in the world, and also the cheapest, so we thought that this would be a great opportunity for Craig to take his first dive and we were right. Diving in the Bay of Pigs amongst the electric bluefish and the coral was spectacular!

Scuba Diving in Cuba | Playa Larga

Why Scuba Dive?

It’s a surprise that Craig hasn’t dived before since his Dad has just retired as a deep-sea diver (aka Master Salvage Operator, great name) with the Ministry of Defence. I’d like to add that his Dad has retired as a result of diving induced medical reasons and not age, before Andy kicks off! To be fair on Craig, I can’t imagine the River Forth (in Scotland) has much to offer bar the occasional trolley and shoe. Exotic!

I’ve dived once before in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and was keen to do it again in the turquoise waters of Cuba. It has been a highlight of our three week trip to Cuba and at 35 CUC each, an absolute bargain (do tell us if this was too expensive for Cuba, we won’t be surprised after three weeks enduring the Cuban hustle!)

Scuba diving in Varadero is so much more expensive, you’d be looking at double this price and then some.

Potential divers – please read the entirety of the post. I often get frantic emails from travellers who are keen to dive in Cuba asking how to book the dive online before arriving in Cuba. We did not book online and everything worked out fine. I am the biggest over-planner but you have to let go in Cuba, it’s just the Cuban way!

Scuba Diving in Cuba Playa Larga

How to Get to Playa Larga / Bay of Pigs

We left Viñales via taxi (vintage car, standard) with three other friends.

The four and a half-hour drive cost 25 CUC each door to door with a short snack/toilet stop (ham roll for 1 CUC each, cost of an upset tummy for some of our group, free!) and a car swap halfway.

We hadn’t arranged our casa in Playa Larga at The Bay of Pigs so we let the driver help us out.

We bartered for a casa in the small (very small) town of Caleton and got it down to 10 CUC each (we stayed in a double private, Sarah and Annie shared and Geoff had the other private), with the catch of paying for a 4 CUC breakfast.

It was the breakfast of kings but we’ve now learned that we should 100% not spend more than 10 CUC with breakfast.

Scuba Diving in Cuba Playa Larga

The Bay of Pigs

The Bay of Pigs has two main beaches – Playa Larga and Playa Gerón.

A local in Viñales recommended Larga over Gerón, we hadn’t mentioned we wanted to dive but this turned out to be the best option for the plunge.

Playa Girón is where Fidel Castro defeated the Americans during the famous attack at the Bay of Pigs. It has a museum and plaques for history fans. I was super keen to see this but it was going to cost too much in a taxi and as per, no one knew what times the buses came (such a headache).

We later found out there was a bus to Cienfeougos (then on to Trinidad, 12 CUC) which should stop at Girón at 10:00.

However, it actually arrived at 09:40 which nearly caused our amiga to miss it. Another two travellers also took the last seats so, taking that into consideration, a few out of the nine of us trying to leave Playa Larga would not have got on. This is typical of Cuban transport!

Gerón, Then Be Gone!

When we arrived in Caleton, we hailed down an American school bus which took us along to Larga itself to find something to eat.

Little did we know there wasn’t anything!

The sea itself was quite dark, not what you see on Cuban postcards, nonetheless still pretty.

There was a resort but it looked like a ghost town. An employee told us that it did open during the day but because June is low season it closed early.

Annie says she felt like we’d only been dropped off in Playa Larga to feed the mosquitos. She wasn’t diving in The Bay of Pigs though.

We were then jumped on by a man promoting his friend’s restaurant and promised us the world, as Cubans do – lobster, chicken, deer (have yet to see Bambi in the fields), prawns, pork and crocodile.

Since Craig doesn’t eat anything from the sea we clarified that there was definitely chicken…

Alas, when we arrived at the casa there was no chicken, or prawns. However, they did have pork. So for 9 CUC each, drinks included (haggled down from 10) we ate the feast with rice and salad. In Trinidad we managed to haggle a dinner with meat down to 5, you’ve just got to keep trying!

It’s exhausting.

Scuba Diving in Cuba Playa Larga

Organising Scuba Diving in Cuba

Our casa mum arranged the diving for us and the next day we were collected from the house at 9am, not Cuba time on this occasion which left us all flapping!

There was only one diving company, so there was no choice for diving in Cuba.

There is no need (or option!) to book a diving slot in advance. Arrive in the area the night before, ask around (casa owner, taxi driver) and someone will help you book a dive for the next day. This is very typical of life in Cuba.

Scuba Diving in Cuba I Travel Budget for 3 Weeks in Cuba

Cheapest Diving in Cuba But The Best?

The bus took us to Playa Larga where we were kitted out by an angry man who then bussed us to the dive site. This is where Cuba from the TV is – crystal turquoise blue sea which smashes right up to the side of the ‘beach’ (grass and rock)!

Diving in Cuba Caribbean Sea
Diving in Cuba

The beauty of diving in Cuba is that there is no need for a boat which keeps costs down (25 CUC), you just walk directly into the sea.

The diving instructors divided us into two groups – PADI certified who then went off to investigate a wreck at another dive site and us, the non – certified, who stayed at this initial dive spot.

After a quick ‘equipment’ lesson from the angry drill sergeant ‘press this for up, this for down and this means OK’ we were in the water.

Scuba Diving in Cuba Playa LargaDiving Panic

Initially, I was concentrating too much and had a slight panic, was I breathing too heavy? Too much? Was this normal? Why did I eat five pancakes and now feel like voming?

Craig confirmed he too was breathing heavily and long so this calmed me down and I was good to go. Craig said he panicked a little because he felt light-headed after his ears equalised (diving chat for ‘popping’) but that did not tamper the overall experience, which was magical.

Our first ever Youtube video! Check us out diving in Cuba!

Down we went to the bottom of the Caribbean, can’t say that happens every day.

It felt like flying through the water amongst the colourful fish. The advice was to stay away from the bottom, I can confirm that coral hurts when you scrape your leg against it! At one point I was fixated on the bubbles escaping from the instructor’s equipment, it looked like massive mushrooms of silver mercury rising to the top of the water, truly like a Disney movie.

We were underwater for forty minutes and when we returned to civilisation, Geoff said ‘damn it, that’ll be another expensive activity I’m sucked in to,’ he was a first-timer too. Diving lovers! Check out this scuba diving bucket list. How many have you done?

Non Divers? No Stress – Snorkelling

Not up for diving? For 15 CUC you can hire a snorkel kit, although I think this price is really steep.

We were told it was because of the bus journey but we were only on the bus for twenty minutes max (maybe investigate a taxi to the beach and hire the kit there?) Into snorkelling, check out this post on snorkelling in Palau, an island near the Philippines – jaw-dropping!

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iving in Cuba Bay of Pigs | Adventure travel

Throughout our Cuba series, we’ve expressed that the three weeks in Cuba were the most challenging chapter of our 17-month travel trip. At the bottom of each article, I’ve highlighted what we enjoyed and what challenged us.

What We Love About Playa Larga

  • The diving – hooked!

What We Shove

  • The hustle (it continues!)
  • The bank being closed, luckily we had euros to change (Cambiar also closed for lunch) and new friends to bail us out
  • The mosquitos

Duration: 1 night (I’d do 2 and get the bus the next day if taxi isn’t feasible)

How to Get There

We took a taxi collectivo from Viñales for 25 CUC each but there is a bus

How to Get Out

Taxi for 20 CUC each to Trinidad (12.50 CUC to Cienfuegos)
Bus at 10:00 (arrived at 09:40)

Next stop: Trinidad (salsa and cocktails)

Where was the best dive spot for you?

Gemma and Craig are full-time workers with a life-long travel habit. Flirting with 30 and let loose on the world! Gemma writes, Craig looks good in the photos.

Comments 35

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  1. Congrats for your 1st video and his first dive!!!
    Till now I have only experienced snorkeling and I love it, so I think the next step would be diving!!!
    But as you said, it´s a quite expensive activity and Cuba is not on our travel plans for now 🙁 , but it´s good to know that the quality and price there are good! Something to keep in mind for next trips!

    All the best,


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      Thanks Nat. I think Craig is obsessed with filming now, we’ll be fighting over the laptop. I’ll keep an eye out for your first diving experience!

  2. Great post! I’m in a similar boat to the one that Craig just dove out of… I’ve never been scuba diving. It’s a frustrating one for me, because i absolutely love the idea of it (even more so now you’ve bought the Disney element to my attention)… but i’m worried I may get claustrophobic. Did you find that at all? I also can’t seem to shake the image of an angry shark coming out of the shadows straight at me ha. Ridiculous I know! Hopefully I’ll have a similar diving love story to tell before too long though :). Loved this!


    PS. Sorry for our sad post… there will be a happy clappy one next time I promise :).

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      I did a bit at the start but once you get your breathing sorted (to the best you can as it’s not a natural feeling!) you get over it. Focus on the fish. I had some Honey Nut Loops courtesy of the ‘free food’ shelf yesterday, the joys of living in a hostel!

  3. I totally dig your first video and an underwater one at that! Congratulations, Gemma and Craig! Good job, Craig, on conquering your first dive!

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  5. We’ve been to Cuba a few times and love it! I’ve never been diving there, but the snorkelling is good. Looking forward to your next post!

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      Thanks Doreen. Trinidad is now live. We’re going to take a break from Cuba to tell you about Canada then will be have the ‘advice’ posts firing through!

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        Hi Gerry, I hope that Doreen gets back to you but she did leave the comment back in 2015. We didn’t spot anywhere to purchase but you could hire from our dive company.

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  6. Wow, ballsy!

    We considered diving in Cuba, but ultimately gave it a miss after not finding any operators who had PADI or SSI certification (few surprises there with the embargo in full swing still).

    So am I understanding this correctly, you did your first dive after only a few minute crash course!?

    Crazy, but glad you enjoyed it

    My hot tip would be, get certified before any more dives (for your own well being)!

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      I’ve dived before in Oz, it was Craig’s first dive but his Dad is a professional diver for the MOD. They were PADI trained, they even separated the divers between trained and not trained and took the trained group to another area (as we said above).

  7. Wow!!! Great post..Actually me and my whole family planning to go for scuba diving..I love adventurous trips and my kids too..:) and I think the things you covered through the post are quiet impressive, good job and great efforts. I found it very interesting and enjoyed reading all of it…keep it up, lovely job..

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  8. Thanks for posting all this great info! I am planning a trip for a group of friends, but we only have 10 days in Cuba.
    If we want to check out Cienfuegos, Playa Larga/Giron, and Trinidad should we stay in one place and do day trips? Or do you think it’s better to stay 1 night one place and 2 another? Not sure if diving is on the itinerary yet, but we’ll see.

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      Don’t stay in Playa Larga / Giron if can be avoided – there really wasn’t much there but was worth it (one night) for the dive! It’s pretty far from Trinidad so cross that out (we went there after diving, took a taxi collectivo – $25 each / 5 people). Cienfuegos is in between Playa Larga and Trinidad but I’m not sure how much it would be to taxi back to dive from there. Car rental really is not easy in Cuba unfortunately. We met people who were hanging around Havana waiting each day on a car coming in, if you are limited on time I would get that nailed ASAP. On a plus note – car rental would give you lots of freedom (ignore locals who tell you that roads are closed / it’s getting too dark you should stay at their casa – common scam an Aussie couple shared with us who had hired a car). Have you checked out our other posts? I recently updated our Cuba travel budget and everything is listed in this Cuba cheat sheet. Come back to me and let me know how you got on Amber? Alway interested in the most up to date info! If you have anymore questions, hit me up 🙂

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  9. Hi, I was just wondering if you knew the name of your dive site and whether you were given a choice of dive locations when you took your dive from Playa Larga? Thanks!

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      There was only one dive centre so we didn’t have any choice! We literally arrived in Caleton (we didn’t stay in Playa Larga), asked our taxi and he took us to a casa who took us to the diving instructor. The instructor then picked us up the next morning then took us to one of two dive sites (depending on experience).

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  10. Hi Two Scots!

    I’ve been enjoying reading your blog, I’m off to Cuba in November so it has been very useful!
    My boyfriend and I were hoping to do some diving in the Bay of Pigs but he doesn’t have his padi. Lots of websites say they offer open water courses but no details of how to book? Any idea how one might do this?
    I see your casa mum organised yours on arrival but I’d be worried about booking a whole course off the cuff like that!
    Best wishes and happy travelling,

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      Hi Rosie! I, like you, do not enjoy loose plans but you really just have to go with the flow in Cuba. I think that was partly why I found the trip so tough, I am far too highly strung for that! There was a large group of us who were picked up at different casas, the group was then split – those who had training went to a more advanced dive, the rest of us stayed at the initial spot. I just Googled ‘Caleton Cuba Diving’ and a website for casas came up, it may be an idea to email a few casas and see if they can help you out? Everyone works on commission in Cuba so it’s in their best interest to help you out. Keep in contact and let me know how you get on please!

  11. Great first video Gemma 🙂

    And also for posting all this great information! Myself and my boyfriend are planning a trip to Cuba next year and I love diving. I took him on his first dive just recently in Malta.

    Would you recommend the dive at Playa Larga for a beginner?

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  12. Hello, I was wondering if you know how much did the people with PADI certificate pay for the advanced dive? I am planning to go to Cuba with my boyfriend and so far, your site has been a great help, keep it up :)) Thanks!

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      I spoke to my friend who did it at same time as us and she thinks two dives was 40 CUC. Come back to me and let me know if that was accurate please!

  13. Hi hi!!

    Quick question – considering you weren’t certified, how deep did they let you go?? And did they teach you a full course and did you get certified, or was it just enough knowledge to get by on the day??

    Also – how do you pre-book?? Do they have an email address or anything?

    Thanks so much!

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      Hey Dizar, yeah there’s no way to book. We just asked our casa the night before – all very casual which is how Cuba is! You can read more about the casas here.

      I’m not sure of the measurements of the dive but you can see from the video to get an idea. It was only a day dive, no certification was on offer. Let me know how you get on!

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